# Tallinn, Estonia

Source: https://sumnerevans.com/posts/travel/2015-baltic-cruise/2015-08-01-tallin-estonia/
Published: 2015-08-01
Travel, Baltic Cruise and Northern Europe, Estonia, Tallinn

Today we were in Tallinn, Estonia. We arrived in port at about 7:00 and, after
breakfast, we went out to meet our guide at about 8:30. Unlike Russia, there was
no passport control or anything (which was quite refreshing). Our guide's name
was Siljva (or something like that) it was pronounced like Sill-vuh. Her English
was very good and she was very well educated (she is writing her thesis to
become a information technology lawyer). She was able to answer our questions
much more easily than Maria in St. Petersburg.

We rode in a van to the old town where the driver dropped us off. I am going to
give you an overview of the history of Estonia, then an overview of the history
of Tallinn and then describe the main events of the day.

The Estonian people are descendants of the same tribes that populated Finland
and Romania. These people groups migrated from Siberia. The Romanians obviously
went further south while the Finns went across the Baltic. Our guide said that
Finnish and Estonian are very similar and she can understand Finnish without
much trouble. Despite their close proximity to Russian and the other Baltic
States, the Estonians consider themselves to be Northern Europeans (like the
Finns, Swedes, Danes, and Norwegians).

The Estonians were conquered by many foreign invaders. In the medieval times up
to the Victorian age, Estonia was conquered by the Danish, the Swedes, the
Russians, and maybe some other nations. I can't remember the exact order. The
Russians ruled Estonia when WWI broke out. After the communist takeover in
Russia and the subsequent withdrawal from WWI, Russia relinquished claims to
Estonia. The Estonians seized the opportunity and declared independence. From
1918 until WWII, Estonia was its own nation. During WWII, Nazi Germany invaded
and conquered Estonia from the Russians and then the USSR reconquered Estonia.
In 1991 after the wall came down, Estonia again became a sovereign nation. Since
their independence, the Estonians have literally pulled themselves up by their
bootstraps and are now the most successful of the Baltic states.

To achieve this economic success, the Estonians took a very radical approach for
the time and region. They embraced capitalism and conservatism (even though
there they refer to it as liberalism). They have a flat tax of 21% and a 20%
sales tax, but no corporate tax. This encouraged a lot of foreign investment and
jump started their economy.  Unlike many European countries, pensions are low,
unemployment benefits are low, and welfare is virtually nonexistent. This lack
of financial burden has helped Estonia become very prosperous. Estonia is a
member of NATO, the EU, and is part of the Eurozone which encourages investment.

Since they were able to start from scratch, they developed the concept of an
e-state. Every person has a card which identifies them electronically. They use
this to vote, bank, file taxes, create businesses, use public services and a
bunch of other things. They even have a concept of e-residency. Anyone can
become an e-resident of Estonia and use the public services. For example you can
create a business in Estonia from the US and you can do your banking online and
everything. If you are a business wanting to get into the Eurozone, Estonia is
the way to go.

Twenty-five percent of Estonians are ethnically Russian. Many of them are not
integrated into Estonian society which is a major concern especially after what
happened in Ukraine. Estonians are considered the least religious country in the
world. Only 10% consider themselves to be "religious". Of that 10%, the majority
is Lutheran (Estonia converted to Protestantism from Catholicism after the
Reformation) and most of the rest are Russian Orthodox.

Estonians view the Russians as foreign invaders. Our guide said that many
Estonians believe that it is only a matter of time before the Russians will be
back. Our guide said that many believe that Estonia survived so many foreign
conquerors in part because of their unique language which helped them keep an
national identity.

Our guide said that everyone who comes to Estonia (especially Tallinn) love it
and would like to come back. I have to say that I would like to go back someday
as well. She said that because Estonia is not a very well known tourist
destination, we should tell people about it when we got home. Well, I am
recommending Tallinn to you right now. I'm not saying this because she told us
to, but I truly enjoyed my time in Estonia.

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Tallinn itself is a beautiful city. The old town is one of the best preserved
medieval towns in the world. In many ways it reminded us of small German towns.
Until the end of the 1800s, the city was divided into two parts, the upper city
and the lower city. Each part had different rulers with different laws. The
upper part was where the important people lived, and the lower part was where
the workers lived.  (For those of you who know Denver, think of the upper town
as Cherry Creek and the lower town as Commerce City, just *way* smaller.) Even
today you can still see some of the differences. The lower part of town is
filled with tourist shops, whereas the upper town is less of a shopping
district. To get from one town to the other, there were only two ways: the short
leg and the long leg. Tallinn has been nicknamed the limping city because of
this. The gates at each of these were closed at 21:00 each night so that no one
could pass through.

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We began our tour in the upper town. We went into two churches, a Russian
Orthodox church and a Lutheran cathedral. A service was being held in the
Russian Orthodox church while we were there so we were able to see a very
different kind of worship. It did feel a bit awkward to be watching a church
service as a tourist, but I'm sure the people are very used to it. One
interesting thing about the Lutheran church was that it was decorated with a
wooden coat-of-arms for every royal family in Estonia. We took the short leg
down into the lower city and saw the main square. We were able to walk into the
oldest pharmacy still in use which was founded in like 1620 something I think.
We got to see both modern medicine and very old medicine.

After our tour finished, the guides showed us the place where we were to meet
our driver later that day at 13:00. We had lunch at a cafe, and some of the
people in the group shopped. Then we went to the van and drove to an old Soviet
military base where we were going to do some 4-wheeling. Mrs. Gina had organized
this expedition, so we went with them. Even the twins (who are twelve) got to go
on their own ATV. We got suited up and then headed out. I had a ton of fun, but
I think mom and Tom had the most fun. They would drop back and then gun it at
full speed to catch up to the rest of the group. The Coco boys tried to pass
each other and got in trouble. The guide stopped and said “no racing”.

It was an entirely different environment than at home. We didn't sign any
waivers or anything. I think it might be some of the leftovers of the Soviet
era.

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After dinner, I ran into the Ure family (the ones that I played soccer with) out
by the ping-pong tables with some other kids. We spent the evening playing card
games and chess and talked about our time in Tallinn. It was a very enjoyable
evening.
